I remember Luchow's
...do you? Memories, Octoberfest, and today's alternatives in NYC and the Hamptons
Every Christmas my family made a once-a-year pilgrimage to Luchow’s, a German restaurant so big it stretched a block long, located on East 14th Street in New York City. It was there for almost a century.
We usually scored my father’s favorite table at Christmas-time that was located by a huge beautifully decorated tree in the main dining room and we always ordered the same meal: herring salad, Sauerbraten, wine kraut and potato dumplings served on heavy oval plates, and crepes that they would make and flame in front of you. My grandmother always ordered their turkey with stuffing and all the trimmings. My father would have a big stein of beer and my mother would delicately tip to her lips Mosel wine from a green stemmed glass. Unbelievably, the waiters all seemed to remember us.
Enveloped in a happy haze of holiday festivity, it was the highlight of our Christmas. And the food was good. Copious. Even as children we loved it. The jolly proud waiters. The live music. That enormous tree. Nothing could go wrong when you were at Luchow’s. It exuded good times and good vibes.
Since it is October and Octoberfest is in full swing, I couldn’t help but think of Luchow’s. Then, because it is no longer there, I wondered: where would I go if I wanted to replicate that same experience today? So here, then, are my ideas if you are considering setting out for some music, authentic imported draught beer and wurst in both New York City and out here in the Hamptons. “Prost!”
In New York City:
From now until October 29 the Watermark Bar on Pier 15, downtown NYC, is hosting live music, dancing, and Octoberfest food in an open-air setting overlooking the East River and the stunning Brooklyn skyline under the stars. You are going for the view and the music and the party atmosphere for the most part, so save your appetite for some of the following for more inspired Octoberfest specialties at other venues uptown, or end up here later at night.
From now until Halloween, this mid-town Manhattan favorite for sausage-and-beer feasts celebrates what it calls the “biggest Octoberfest even in NYC” with lederhosen, huge steins, food and jollity. They even have my favorite beer, Spatenbrau, on endless tap.
This is where you will find the largest list of authentic dishes. Try the Jaeger schnitzel, wursts with potato pancakes and potato salad.
If I am on my own, I head over to Schaller and Webber on the upper east side. They are the last remaining remnant of what used to be a vibrant German community there in Yorkville and I have been relying on them forever for fabulous in-house wursts and German foods.
Well, let me tell you. They have a tiny hole-in-the-wall take-out next door that is so good!!!!! I usually order and just stand outside and scoff down amazing offerings. Try their classic bratwurst mit sauerkraut, or their “chicken club” which is a chicken brat with bacon, lettuce, tomato mayo and Stube sauce, or walk away with their giant Octoberfest freshly-made pretzel served with Bavarian sweet mustard to dip into. To die for.
Right next door to Schaller and Webber, still on the upper east side, is the old Heidelberg Restaurant, another favorite of mine since I as a teenager. It is a quiet, dark wood restaurant where you can hear each other talk.
Try the käsespäzle, an oven-baked casserole of noodles with Emmenthaler cheese, garlic, and onions; Schweinshare, a huge roasted pork shank served with boiled potato and sauerkraut; and yes, they also have Spatenbrau on draught!
In the Hamptons:
Most of the Octoberfest festivities are done and over in the Hamptons, however, there is one German restaurant you may want to try!
I was downcast when I heard Shippy’s, a German restaurant that had been in the heart of Southampton for almost 60 years, was closing. It had provided so many wonderful memories and meals and I loved the ambiance. But then, I heard it was bought and they wanted to keep the original feeling in place. Yay.
After renovations, it is now open again. Scanning the menu, I can see it has kept a few German dishes, so I will go soon and try them. I see sauerbraten, schnitzel, and bratwurst. They don’t yet have all the other German specialities that used to be on the menu, but time will tell. If you go, let me know what you think? Note: they do not have Spatenbrau on tap.
Store Review:
Schaller and Webber, 1654 Second Avenue at 86th Street, NY
I have been shopping at this store for over 30 years and it is still the same as it ever was. Same as it ever was. Fabulous. Even the staff behind the counters are out of a movie and it’s worth going merely to interact with them. Seriously.
What do I buy there?
Deli meats: their smoked loin of pork called kasseler rippchen, and their house-made Bavarian meatloaf called leberkase. Any of the sausages. And thinly sliced Black Forest ham and their Alpine Sopressata with Fontina Cheese for sandwiches. Their potato salad, pickled beets, and coleslaw.
Then there are all the mustards, sauces, condiments, breads, Austrian chocolates, German chocolates, holiday treats, regional German beers…..it is expensive, but then the packaged goods are imported and the labor and quality that goes into the butcher and deli items makes it understandable. P.S. they also stock Balthazar Breads daily.
So dear friends, until next week, enjoy this end of summer beautiful weather!
Auf wiedersehen!